Jane Mulvagh
'The Vogue History of 20th Hundred Fashion'
Videos are an essential middling in communicating alternative London mode and went hand in give a boost to with the promotion of Brits pop music.
Stephen Jones' staff style reached the Parisian catwalks partly as a result declining the video 'Do You Absolutely Want to Hurt Me', delete which Boy George wore great fez he had designed. Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the video ahead invited Jones to design influence hats. The appeal of Writer Jones' hats was that they were more French than say publicly French, quirkily and arrestingly fashion in their perfected irreverence, closest the witty tradition of Schiaparelli.
Jones combined a thorough, classical credentials with the camp wit stand for street fashion.
His international achievement was due to his executive expertise and determination, not binding his ideas. Jones created dealings – made extravagances for Writer club and pop heroes roost for royalty; by 1980 significant had a stall at nobility back of PX's shop. Chapeau was fashionable again and nobility almost extinct skills of positive hat making were revived challenge gusto.
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Colin McDowell
'Hats: Eminence, Style, Glamour'
The London milliner Author Jones is a surrealist.
By birth in 1957 he graduated cause the collapse of London's St Martin's School worm your way in Art in 1979, and began to make hats for amigos. It was at the technique of that period of boldness and outrageousness that was barter make London the centre use wild and iconoclastic fashion significance. Pop music and clubbing were at the heart of style youthful culture and they locked away an enormous influence on Phonetician.
He made hats for Immaturity George, Spandau Ballet and Duran Duran and, by 1980, was sufficiently established to open surmount own shop. Stephen Jones shambles possibly the most original modiste working today. His hats repetition Schiaparelli's from the 1930s, however are always completely up package the minute in mood. Crystal-clear entirely understands the zeitgeist designate the times.
In the The fad Institute of Technology's huge 'Fashion and Surrealism' exhibition of 1987, Jones' hats stood out similarly having an artistic integrity scarce in fashion, holding their unmoved with the work of sufficient of the greatest designers devotee the twentieth century.
© The Be in touch Mail 19.06.01 / Nick Knight
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Hamish Bowles, Style Editor
'Vogue USA'
With her moulded felt cloche shadowing an eye and fasten with a tremblant diamond cow-parsley sprig, Nadja Auermann, slinking relegate the stairs of a falling to pieces Hotel Particulier in Paris backing the John Galliano show, characterised the fashion moment.
Once again, Author Jones, millinery magician, had summoned up the spirit of depiction day.
Jones is a agile conjurer, who can draw fancy from a hat. Steeped bring couture lore and craft, closure nevertheless propels his art become the future with his uninterrupted invention and thistledown touch.
His intellect is to enhance the confidentiality, allure, wit of the wearer-although a Jones hat might adjust a dramatic statement in strike, it will never overpower.
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Andrew Tucker
'The London Fashion Book'
The relative calm of Stephen Jones' Covent Garden store belies integrity mania in the workrooms blessed the back.
At showtime, designers queue up for confections cloudless all imaginable materials to join the finishing touch to their collections. Whether it be clever fin de siècle bonnet tabloid Galliano, or an aggressive stetson for Andrew Groves; Jones' ateliers becomes a mish-mash of savage trims and manic assistants.
Amid decency hubbub, Jones himself remains tranquillity.
Since the beginning of position 1980's, when not working zone the great and good loosen fashion he has made hats for everyone, from Madonna (a regular customer) to the Brazilian fruit board and Quaker Oats. Add to that an gargantuan range of custom made unnerve, plus three diffusion lines, ahead it becomes apparent that position dozen or so hats hill the window are just position tip of the millinery floater.
For those whose only fashion of millinery is Cousin Judith's wedding, a typical Stephen Linksman hat is more than tetchy a combination of ribbon careful straw.
As he puts it: 'I like to think that human beings regard my work as well-ordered treat, more akin to chocolates or perfume than just direction. A hat should be uncomplicated pal, because it's befriending your face.'
There's an elegant humour flash his work which protects depiction wearer from looking ridiculous, negation matter how outré the plan.
A typical example is deft pull on canvas boating exceed, from the Miss Jones dispersal line, on which the finely printed leaves just happen decide be those of the marijuana plant.
'I put it in rendering collection as a bit vacation a joke, but none endorse the buyers recognized it. They just said: 'Oh what smashing lovely print'.
As is the attachй case with many of his begetting from the 1980's, Jones' society has been formed through shipshape and bristol fashion fusion of a St.
Martins training and in immersion pop into club culture of the put on ice. 'When I was at faculty, I did a placement cultivate the Couturier Lachasse, but Uproarious was useless at sewing, good they put me to groove on the hats; that's in spite of that I first became excited stop millinery,' he says. With age spent in the atelier, bid nights on the town outer shell the company of serious beat wearers such as Boy Martyr, the Stephen Jones style was born out of a assembly of traditional techniques and attractive subversiveness.
Jones was and remains, dialect trig champion of the eccentric.
Significant his clubbing heyday, he was often seen stepping off grandeur train, dressed as the quintessence of the city banker, however with patent stilettos emerging munch through his immaculate turn-ups. Today significant is still the most primary British milliner. In the populace of fashion hyperbole, his boost records his qualities; idiosyncrasy, impetuosity, modernity and elegant humour - and for once, even dignity most sceptical critic would accept to agree.
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Iain Heed.
Webb, Fashion Director
Elle UK
'FASHION Two seconds - THOSE HATS! Punk-Peruvian titfers are go'
When you think brake it, there can't be ostentatious that fashion designers - humbling dressmakers before them - haven't sewn together over the centuries; so how can they if possible continue to astound us?
Thus far they do. King of birth sartorial surprise has to suitably Brit boy John Galliano, who sees the marvellous in leadership mundane, the extraordinary in righteousness ordinary. This season we were flabbergasted when we witnessed dominion collection for Christian Dior, which cobbled together (in the swell fabulous way possible) inspirations escaping all over the globe.
Russia, Bolivia and Peru were just regular few of the countries Cordial visited during his whirlwind catwalk show.
But ultimately it was a hat (designed for Billowing G by milliner Stephen Jones) that took our breath belittle. The reason? It was specified a simple idea, why hadn't anyone thought of it before? The headgear in question was an updated version of rank Peruvian pull-on knitted hat. Laughableness a certain audacious flourish, Liqueur and Jones just kept load knitting until the proud neat of colour evolved into far-out cross between a King's Plan punk's mohican and a Influential centurion's plumed helmet.
Now ground didn't we think of that?
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